Free calculator

    Avalanche or snowball? Run both.

    Avalanche pays the highest interest rate first and costs less. Snowball pays the smallest balance first and finishes something sooner. The argument between them is settled by your numbers, not by a principle — so here are your numbers, both ways.

    Everything you owe

    List every debt, including the ones at 0%. Leaving one out makes both plans look better than they are. Statement balances are fine — precision to the dollar changes nothing here.

    Debt 1

    0 is fine — medical plans and family loans often are.

    Debt 2

    0 is fine — medical plans and family loans often are.

    Debt 3

    0 is fine — medical plans and family loans often are.

    Debt 4

    0 is fine — medical plans and family loans often are.

    On top of all the minimums. This is the number that does the work.

    Monthly plan budget

    $815

    $615 in minimums plus $200 extra. Both strategies spend exactly this every month — that's what makes the comparison fair.

    Total owed

    $20,000

    Accruing about $223 in interest this month

    Interest avalanche saves

    $137

    Both plans finish in the same month

    Avalanche

    Cheaper

    Highest APR first. Attacks the debt that's costing you the most per dollar.

    Debt-free in
    2 yrs 5 mo
    Around January 2029
    Total interest paid
    $3,125
    First target
    Store card

    Snowball

    Faster first win

    Smallest balance first. Clears accounts sooner, which is easier to keep doing.

    Debt-free in
    2 yrs 5 mo
    Around January 2029
    Total interest paid
    $3,261
    First target
    Medical payment plan

    The honest read

    Avalanche saves $137 and finishes at about the same time. That is the whole advantage — and it is real money. But the study of this that actually matters is the one on whether people finish. Snowball's first payoff comes at month 4, avalanche's at month 11. If the gap between those is large and you have abandoned a debt plan before, pay the $137 for the momentum. A finished snowball beats an abandoned avalanche by the entire balance.

    The order each plan kills your debts

    Both plans spend $815 a month. When a debt clears, its minimum rolls into the next one.
    AvalancheSnowball
    #1Store card — month 11Medical payment plan — month 4
    #2Medical payment plan — month 12Store card — month 11
    #3Credit card — month 22Credit card — month 23
    #4Car loan — month 29Car loan — month 29

    This calculator runs entirely in your browser. Your numbers are never sent to us or anyone else. There is no server doing the math, no account, and nothing saved — not even in your browser's local storage. Close the tab and every figure you entered is gone.

    What the simulation actually does

    Every month, in order: interest is added to each balance at that debt's APR divided by twelve. Then the plan budget — the sum of all your minimums plus your extra — is spent. Each debt receives its minimum. Whatever remains goes entirely to one target debt. When a debt reaches zero, its minimum doesn't leave the plan; it joins the pot attacking the next target. That rolling is the engine, and it's why the last debt disappears so much faster than the first.

    The only difference between the two columns is which debt is the target. Avalanche sorts by APR, highest first. Snowball sorts by balance, smallest first. Everything else is identical, including the total you spend each month, which is what makes the comparison honest.

    Worked example, using the numbers loaded on the page

    Four debts: a $5,200 card at 22.9%, a $900 medical plan at 0%, a $2,400 store card at 28.9%, and an $11,500 car loan at 6.9%. Minimums total $615. Add $200 extra and the plan budget is $815 a month.

    Avalanche looks at the rates and picks the store card at 28.9%, because every $100 sitting on that card costs $2.41 a month while $100 on the medical plan costs nothing. Snowball looks at the balances and picks the $900 medical plan, which it clears in about four months — a real account closed, one fewer statement, one fewer due date.

    Snowball spent four months attacking a debt charging 0% interest, which in pure arithmetic is the worst possible target. That's the cost of the momentum, and the page shows you exactly what it comes to in dollars.

    Which one to pick

    Avalanche wins on math. It always has and always will — mathematically it is impossible for snowball to cost less, because avalanche by definition removes the most expensive interest first. If you're comparing the two on total cost, the argument is already over.

    Snowball often wins on follow-through, and follow-through is the variable that actually determines the outcome. A plan you abandon in month seven costs you every dollar of the debt you didn't pay. If the difference here is a couple of hundred dollars and snowball gets you a closed account in the first quarter, take snowball and don't feel clever about it.

    A middle path most calculators won't tell you about: run snowball until you clear one small debt, then switch to avalanche. You get the early win and most of the savings. Nothing requires you to pick a religion in month one.

    What this doesn't model

    Minimum payments here are fixed. Real credit card minimums are usually a percentage of the balance with a floor, so they shrink as the balance falls. Holding them constant makes the simulation slightly optimistic on debts you aren't targeting — a difference of a few months on a long plan.

    It assumes you add nothing new to any of these balances. If you keep using the card while paying it down, none of these numbers apply. Freeze the cards, or at minimum take them out of your phone's saved payment methods.

    It ignores promotional rates that expire, deferred-interest offers that back-charge you retroactively, late fees, over-limit fees, and penalty APRs. Any of those can add hundreds. It also ignores the credit score effect of the order you pay things in — paying a maxed card down below 30% of its limit can move your score faster than closing a small loan, which matters if you're about to apply for a mortgage.

    And it treats the car loan like any other debt. Secured debt is not like any other debt: miss enough payments on that one and the car is repossessed, regardless of how well the rest of the plan is going. Never divert a secured minimum into an accelerated payoff on a card.

    Before you start either plan

    Call every card issuer and ask for a lower APR. It's a five-minute call, the script is "I've been a customer for X years and I'm looking at a balance transfer offer — can you review my rate?", and it works often enough to be worth the twenty minutes. A rate cut is free progress that no payoff strategy can match.

    Then set the plan budget as an automatic payment split across your accounts on the day after payday. The single biggest predictor of finishing is whether the money moves before you see it.

    Where these numbers come from

    Every rate, limit and threshold this calculator uses was taken from the primary sources below. Figures change — usually every January — so the official pages are always the final word.

    1. What is a credit card interest rate? What does APR mean?Consumer Financial Protection BureauHow card APR converts to a periodic rate. This calculator uses the same conversion: APR divided by twelve, applied monthly.
    2. How do I get and keep a good credit score?Consumer Financial Protection BureauThe CFPB's guidance on keeping card balances under 30% of your limit — relevant to the order you pay debts down, not just the total.
    3. Debt collectionConsumer Financial Protection BureauWhat to do if a debt is already in collections, where a payoff plan is not the right tool.

    The Wallet Wisdom publishes general financial information, not financial, tax or legal advice. A calculator cannot know your situation. Use the output as a starting point for a conversation with a professional who does.